It’s that time of year again. With each new academic year, seemingly, comes a fresh spin on creative and cerebral endeavours. Could it be that after the torpor of summer the autumn winds ripple those energy levels, bringing a boost in determination and focus? There is certainly a change of air that is palpable.
In my jewellery world it’s a great time to be back in the thick of things. September brings the London jewellery folk two shows - the short sharp trade only IJL at the beginning of the month in the utilitarian void of Olympia followed by two lingering weeks in the gilded dreamland of Goldsmiths’ Fair. Heady charms wait there, along with a lesson or two in trends and styling if you have the wit to step back and take a broader perspective - not easy when you’re encased in the bling of Goldsmiths’ magnificent Hall. If you can, then you’ll discern the current fresh trends in jewellery. If you can’t go or if you’re easily distracted and can’t gain a broader perspective, I have done the leg work for you. Here are the top three jewellery trends right now, plus one piece that has it all:
Short Cut to Style
In total contrast to the sleek mirror polish of smooth bright surfaces, the human eye is also drawn to intriguing detail, hence the new popularity of granular jewels by masters such as Romilly Saumarez Smith and Ruth Tomlinson especially where the eye dances alongside diamonds and facetted gemstones. Texture is found in ethical jewellery pioneer Ute Decker’s masterful surface finishes, which are deceptively natural.
Saumarez Smith’s fairytale imagination bejewels the ‘grots’ of lost personal treasures in a renaissance of purpose and glory, like these fascinating earrings. www.romillysaumarezsmith.com
Ruth Tomlinson’s work is driven by her ‘passion for the earth’s treasures; the magic of minutiae, tiny intricacies’ - https://ruthtomlinson.com
The top three jewellery trends right now are only just catching up with Ute Decker. Her slubby golden textures contrast with her architecturally sculptural lines - https://www.utedecker.com
The warm seduction of yellow gold is everywhere at the Fair and this is good news. For too long, white has ruled the roost and it really does no one any favours other than riff brilliantly with diamonds. Yellow gold is meltingly seductive to the human eye, it looks amazing on skin, and its unique hue is the perfect foil to coloured gems. Get yourself some yellow in the mix and don’t worry about matching up your white gold earrings with white gold only pendants, rings, watch and cuffs - no one cares anymore. Playing with assorted tones with your selection of existing pieces at home is certainly a top jewellery trend now.
The wrist is an erogenous zone once more. Move over Apple Watch and Fitbit, my other wrist has a carat (or eighteen) on it. Cuff a brand that does it best from my favourites and channel your inner warrior queen.
Alison Evans’ chain mail cuffs are a tour de force of ancient skills and modern power jewellery. The Queen of the Sea cuff, in titanium and assorted gems by Alison Evans, feels like gossamer, but looks like the Crown Jewels. www.alisonevans.com
Goldsmith Teri Howes’ breathtaking work is a modern incarnation of Rumplestiltskin - knitting and crocheting spun gold wire into soft precious knits. Her penchant for statement cuffs leads the top jewellery trends. Which woman would you be today - English rose in lady-like pearls and gold, or Parisian vamp in oxidised silver and black diamonds - Teri Howes https://www.terihowesjewellery.com
4) Short Cut to Style
If you just want a single piece sporting all these top jewellery trends in one, then get a cuff from Francesca Marcenaro. A mistress of the cuff, a master of texture and tone, her secret skill is her use of glass granulation, with oxidation, plating, stone setting and engraving to create a bewitching metallic and crystal charm. Her Black and White cuff with diamonds brought in two awards at Goldsmiths Craft and Design 2019, so get one while you can. https://www.francescamarcenaro.com